January, 2017
Is sidemount diving relevant to open water dives?
Sidemount diving is slowly becoming more common and gaining some popularity.
More and more divers are seen diving sidemount in open water environments.
However, is this just a fad and is it relevant to the diving that we normally do?
Where did it come from?
Sidemount diving, which started with exploratory cave diving, was created so that cave explorers could access tighter and more restrictive holes, allowing exploration further into cave systems.
The benefits of sidemount include the freedom of not having large double tanks on your back, the feeling of being free and less weight to cause backaches, easier logistics from carrying smaller tanks to boats instead of larger doubles, etc.
However, do these benefits apply when diving in the open ocean? IMHO, not so much.
Sidemount from shore
In ocean diving, you would traditionally either dive off a boat or from shore.
Shore dives do see a small benefit from sidemount. Mostly from when you have to transport tanks to the waters’ edge, which may not necessarily be a comfortable beach entry.
There could be large waves or rocks that make carrying a large set of doubles tricky if not dangerous to the diver.
In this situation, yes, you would see some benefit from ferrying the tanks to the water in multiple trips, but this would still mean having to make several trips up and down the beach.
Me personally, I’d rather fight the waves once and get into the water quickly, rather than have to struggle multiple times.
Sidemount from a boat
What about diving from a boat?
There’s no requirement to move tanks around, but most divers will have to put on their tanks in the water next to the boat to prevent having to stand with tanks bouncing on your sides while the boat rocks in the waves.
Of course, it’s possible to put on the sidemount tanks on the boat and backroll with them between your legs. But anyone who has ever had a stage tank bash your head on impact with the water would think twice about this.
What happens if there’s some current on the surface?
This would make the process of clipping off the tanks one by one very troublesome while needing to hold on to the boat as well. In choppy seas, this is not an option I would even consider.
Carrying doubles on your back is a much easier option, as you would be way more stable with the weight on your back.
The water entry will be much easier too because you are free to move away from the boat once in the water.
What about during the dives?
Does the sidemount configuration provide any benefits while you’re diving? Well, there is a sense of freedom and increased maneuverability from not having a large mass on your back.
However, you do have to remember to keep the tanks streamlined by checking periodically that they are clipped on the appropriate D-rings as the tanks get lighter.
Plus, you also have to balance the tank usage by breathing from different tanks every once in a while.
This added task load is unavoidable in sidemount, and an additional task when compared with diving doubles.
I haven’t found a restriction in open water yet
In conclusion, there are some benefits to diving sidemount, but sadly, most of them don’t really apply to diving in the open water environment.
I would say that the configuration is an important one to practice with and get good at before attempting to dive a cave system, so practicing in open water makes sense.
However, I personally don’t think diving sidemount as a default configuration in open water really provides enough benefits to outweigh the added complications.
Do GUE people only dive with other GUE people?
A lot of GUE divers, upon getting certified, will want to plan a trip with other GUE divers and go diving. Whilst diving more is always a good thing, what happens when GUE divers only want to dive with other GUE divers?
The Natural Attrition rate of GUE Divers
For me, this situation is not unsurprising. Who wouldn’t want to dive with a team that has the same training, protocols and thinking as you? Why wouldn’t you want to dive with someone whom you know has your back, and can keep you safe? This is in contrast to the ‘instabuddy’, who first meets you on the boat before the dive. You have no idea the level or experience that this person has, and no way of knowing what he’s like underwater. Generally, this doesn’t inspire confidence…
If we all think that way, then what next?
However, I don’t think this is good for the industry and for GUE in general. Firstly, there’s an impression that GUE divers are elitist, making them seem unfriendly and uptight when it comes to dive parameters. Keeping to oneself and not interacting with other divers definitely doesn’t help that impression, but this sticks even though some GUE divers are well meaning and not elitist by nature.
I say help if you can!
Secondly, I feel that as more skilled divers, we have a moral obligation to help and assist others. After all, can we stand by while the environment and other divers get injured and do nothing to teach and educate them about a better way of doing things?
Most diving incidents and environmental damage are entirely preventable, through better training and an increased awareness. By seeing GUE divers lead by example, my hope is that this thinking slowly permeates through the industry, regardless of agency or affiliation. Our greatest obligation is ultimately to the environment that we’ve all grown to love as divers.
So get out there and let other divers have the benefit of your presence in the water! Let them have a safer dive, just by being there. Wouldn’t you want to do this for all your friends who dive?
Let’s lead by example!
What tools do I need for a dive trip?
It’s always good to have a small set of tools when you dive. Better yet, have them on hand in the boat! You never know when you might need to repair something just before a dive.
Here are items that are useful to have, but of course, not all are always necessary. I’ve listed them in terms of two levels of preparedness: An essential set of tools, and a hardcore-fix-almost-anything set of tools that would serve you well if you wanted to dive at the end of the world with zero logistical support.
The Essential 14
- Adjustable spanner, one small and one medium sized – For regulator hoses and SPG removal
- Screwdriver, one Philips screw head and one flat-blade – For canister lights, hose clamps, etc.
- Cable tie, 5 to 10 pieces – For miscellaneous attachments.
- Nylon line, 1 to 2m long – For tying bolt snaps and other miscellaneous attachments.
- Lighter – For burning ends of nylon line.
- Bungee, 1 to 2m long – For replacing necklaces and other attachments.
- Scissors or cutter – For miscellaneous cutting.
- Duct tape, 1 roll – Never leave home without this! Duct tape is useful for Nitrox labelling, holding stuff in place, and other general uses.
- Allen key set containing multiple sizes of keys – For port plugs on first stages.
- Scuba Multi-tool – Some multi-function scuba tools combine a few of these tools in one small, compact package, and these normally come with screwdriver heads, various Hex key sizes, and an O-ring pick.
- O-ring pick – For removing O-rings. (Note: A small one should be sufficient.)
- Spare O-rings – For port plugs, regulator hoses, and SPG spindles.
- Grease – For lubricating parts like the O-rings (Tip: Instead of bringing out a large tube of grease, a simple solution would be squeezing some grease into a small ziptop bag. It’s also convenient to use – just pop the O-ring in the bag, seal and slide it around with your fingers. Voila, the O-ring is greased!)
- Spare mouthpiece – In case you get so excited that you accidentally bite through the mouthpiece on your regulator.
And here comes the list for total preparedness at extreme dive locations where you’d want to have everything on hand, except the kitchen sink!
Fix-it-all
- Tank knob tool – Larger dive operations like dive shops and liveaboard boats should have this tool, but it’s good to have your own as you never know when or where you’ll be when a tank knob gets stuck!
- DIN or Yoke adapter – For times when the boat operator doesn’t have the type of tank valves that you need for your first stage.
- Spare inflator assembly – Good to have replacements on hand as inflators are fickle; the button spring is a salt sink that gets sticky from just missing a single wash.
- Spare double enders and bolt snaps – Infinitely useful, these little things make carrying equipment underwater very manageable.
- Small metal parts like washers, wing nuts, LP and HP port plugs – These are useful if something breaks and you need to plug a first stage. Small washers and spare wing nuts for your backplate system are also useful. Place these in a small ziptop bag to keep them safe and secure.
- Seasick pills and Charcoal tablets – These are typically classified under medication, but these meds are needed so often, there’s no harm stashing them in your tool kit AND first aid kit.
Storage
Keep these tools in a small-sized waterproof box that you can stow in your dry bag. Avoid leaving them around, especially wet surfaces, as tools tend to get rusty real quick around seawater! To absorb moisture trapped within the box, place a small silica gel bag or unused cat litter (inside a tiny sock) inside.