Browsing Category Recreational
How do I tie a good knot?
Attaching bolt snaps to dive gear like SPG hoses, regulators and backup lights make them easier to stow.
Now a common question I get is: So how should I tie a long lasting knot?
We’ve addressed the different types of knots in a previous article, so read this if you would like to find out more about attachment options.
In this article, I’m going to show you how to get a good solid knot tied, so that it lasts (almost) as long as your gear.
A lot of other articles and videos also show how to tie a knot, but I’d like to highlight some of the more important things that I look out for to make sure the knot stays tied over a long period of time.
At the end of the article, I’ll also show the common errors that might cause a knot to fail.
Line choice
Traditionally, most people would use the same line found on their spools to tie their knots.
I’m not a great fan of this, for 2 reasons.
Firstly, it shortens your spool, resulting in an unknown length of line left on the spool.
This is a problem especially if you have a lot of things to tie. I would never recommend going diving without knowing the length of line you have on your spool.
Secondly, and more importantly, I don’t find the braiding on that line appropriate. It’s much too heavy.
A tighter and thinner braid on the line doesn’t stretch as much when wet, creating a more secure knot that doesn’t slip.
Image of a thinly braided line on the left and a heavy braided line on the right
Loop around the connection point and bolt eye
I normally go for 3 or 4 loops around the connection point and the eye of the bolt snap.
For long hoses and SPG hoses, I tend to do 4, but for heavier or other more dynamic knots, I would use more, sometimes up to the width of the bolt snap eye.
Looping the line through the eye of the bolt snap
Cross over and pull tight under the bolt snap
After getting the loops nice, neat and tight, I would bring both ends of the line to the same side of the bolt snap.
Getting the line to the same side of the bolt snap
Then cross both ends of the line and pull them tight, pulling them under the eye of the bolt snap.
Crossing the line and pulling it tight
Pulling the line under the eye of the bolt snap
Ensure that the line is tight around the original loops, making sure that the outer loop is cinching the original loops tight together.
Right over left, left over right
A nice solid knot requires a good tie, and the best one for this situation is the square knot.
Right over left and left over right, that’s a simple phrase I remember to get this correct.
It’s a good knot because the lines tighten on themselves, and it forms a nice flat knot that doesn’t stick out and get abraded.
Tying a square knot
The final square knot
Cut and burn one end at a time
Once the knot is nice and tight, it’s time to seal the ends by cutting and burning off the tips of the nylon line.
The trick here is to cut and burn only one side at a time.
Cut the line as close to the knot as you can, about 1 or 2mm away from the knot.
Only cut one end of the line first, do not cut both sides!
Use a lighter and place it perpendicular to the line, using the heat from the blue part of the flame to melt the line onto the knot itself.
Use a lighter to burn the tip of the line and melt them onto the knot
The melted line on the knot
It’s important to make sure that the excess line is melted into the side of the knot.
This is critical so that the line doesn’t pull out when you cut the other side of the line.
The final knot in all its melted glory
Make it last forever!
I’ve tied knots that have lasted 5 or 6 years with this method, so by following this guide, I’m sure you’ll be able to get a good knot going. Good luck!
Common errors to look out for
Wrong knot
It’s very common to tie a granny knot by repeating the same half knot in the second half of the square knot.
This is not a good knot and tends to slip.
It also tends to stick out, making it prone to abrasion.
An old timer granny knot
Not doing one side at a time
The problem with this is that pulling on one side of the knot will cause the other end to slip out if you’re not careful.
In the least, this will cause the knot to slip and open up a little bit, making it looser.
Cutting both ends of the line before burning them results in a loose knot
Not burning the line into the knot
Burning the tips of the line away from the knot allows the line to slip back into the knot, loosening the knot over time.
Burning the tip of the line away from the knot results in pull back and loosening of the knot
When should I use a reef hook?
Umm, how about never?
Reef hooks… Such a pet peeve of mine…
It’s hard to agree with the general idea of reef hooks in the first place if you are concerned about the health of a reef, but some people swear by it!
How strong the current is, is the wrong question
Any sign of a strong current and divers start to bring out their reef hooks. Sigh…
I think that’s the wrong question though, not all current is strong enough that you need to hook onto a reef.
Where are you going, is the correct question
It’s more important to have an idea of why you are staying in place and not drifting with the current.
Some sites, like shark watching or manta cleaning stations, require you to stay in one position while you’re watching the show, so that you don’t drift forward and interrupt the animals.
However, I think that’s putting a band-aid on the symptom and not solving the real problem of why people can’t hold their position in the water.
Is it any wonder that Makassar Reef in Komodo (mantas) and Monad Shoal near Malapascua (thresher sharks) are full of coral rubble, and there’s barely a reef left?
Kick you must, or drift you shall
In places like these, I’ve found that the current is never strong enough that you can’t really kick against it.
If the current was really that strong, the animals wouldn’t be able to stop and hover at the cleaning stations either.
Learning to kick efficiently and maintaining a streamlined trim position is the correct solution.
Rather than relying on tools like reef hooks and pointers to hold your position.
Patience you must have, my young padawan
As divers, we should be patient when at these cleaning stations.
Observe what we came to observe, and leave when the time is right.
After all, how long do you really need to see a manta be cleaned?
Be like the water, and flow
In certain cases, sure, the current can be stronger than you can handle.
In those situations, I would recommend just putting a finger down on a rock or the sand.
It’s much less intrusive and damaging than a piece of metal that doesn’t have any feelings.
You’ve no idea how many times I’ve seen a reef hook dragging through a reef like a plow through wet mud.
I’ve even seen a metal pointer get broken in half because it was stabbed hard on a rock.
I shudder to think how many other corals died along the way.
Once it’s time to go, then be like the water, and flow.
Drift on, my friend…
The Path to Conservation
Speech on Reef Building projects by Livingseas at the ADEX 2017 Scuba360 Business Forum
A speech was given by Leon Boey to attendees of the Scuba360 Business Forum organized by the Blue Ocean Network at ADEX 2017 (7th April 2017).
He talks about the reef building projects Livingseas Asia has done previously.
He also highlights the current state of dive education and how it relates to marine conservation, finishing off with the things that dive operators and instructors can do to improve.
*Some images from the internet used without permission! Sorry about that!
Should I use a 5 foot or 7 foot long hose?
There are two schools of thought regarding the length of a long hose.
5 or 7 feet (1.5 m or 2 m)?
Let’s explore where they came from and the rationale behind each of them.
7 feet – longer than the average human
The 7-foot hose came from the cave diving environment.
Divers would need to share gas, but sometimes having to go through a restriction swimming in single file.
This made the regular short hose unusable, as you wouldn’t be able to share gas with someone in front or behind you.
The 7-foot hose was used to that divers could have the out of gas diver in front of the donor in single file and still have enough hose to be comfortable (unless you were sharing gas with an 8-foot tall giant…).
Ocean divers then discovered that a longer hose would help in keeping the divers further apart, allowing for better maneuverability and comfort.
However, some people thought that the 7-foot hose was too long because you would never really be sharing in single file in an open water environment.
A 5-foot hose was then adopted as a compromise to having a longer hose to manage while sharing.
5 feet – still a long hose but is it too short?
Personally, I would always use a 7-foot hose, but not for the reasons of sharing ironically.
The longer hose is definitely harder to manage when you’re learning it, but overall, I think it loops better and stows away better into the waist belt or behind a canister light.
This holds the hose in position during the dive, and if managed properly, the hose will stay in that location and not move around.
The 5-foot hose would be trapped under the right armpit when used by a larger diver.
In some cases (8-foot giants especially), this can get uncomfortable to the point of not having enough hose length to turn your head to look left.
Smaller sized divers would not have this problem.
However, as the hose is not secured, it will float and move around behind the arm and potentially above the head.
This may create problems when diving doubles, as the hose extending from the second stage tends to get looped around the isolator manifold or right regulator and knob.
Once there, a sharp turn to the left can actually pull the second stage out of the mouth!
7 feet – a Goldilocks length
For these reasons, I personally would always recommend using a 7-foot hose.
It’s long enough for everyone to be able to tuck it securely under the canister light, or into the waistband.
If your waistband is tight enough, then the hose should not pop out on its own accord and float around.
Having stuff in places where they are secure is a big thing for me, as is keeping things nice and neat.
I really hate it when equipment comes loose and causes problems during a dive.
Equipment should be there to support me, not cause additional issues!
Are diving doubles and sidemount the same thing?
In terms of the number of tanks you might carry, sure, doubles and sidemount appear similar.
However, sidemount and backmount doubles differ in one crucial area – the isolator manifold!
Why would you ever need more than one tank?
Now, let’s start from first principles.
What are the reasons for carrying more than one tank in the first place?
Some might argue that gas volume is the primary reason, however, redundancy is a more important and valid reason.
On a normal single tank (especially one with yoke valves), O-ring failures (tank neck, tank knob and yoke valve) are relatively common.
The next most common thing to fail in scuba gear would be the regulator setup, as there many O-rings and hoses that can rupture and cause a catastrophic gas loss.
Single points of failure are dangerous when diving
With single tanks, a gas loss from an o-ring failure in the yoke valve or the regulator will result in an immediate out of gas situation.
In order to deal with this situation in deeper or more extreme dives where a direct ascent to the surface is impossible (a decompression obligation or an overhead environment), we would require a secondary gas supply so that we don’t go into an out-of-gas situation on a single failure.
Double your tanks, double your hoses, double your failures
A quick solution to this was to just carry another tank.
In the early days, people would just carry 2 tanks, with a full set of regulators on each, in essence, doubling up on the gas supply, but also doubling up on the failure points in the system.
However, what if halfway through the dive, you had one full tank and one nearly empty tank and a failure happened on the full tank?
This would leave you with a nearly empty tank, with no backup.
Clearly, this wasn’t an ideal solution.
What about connecting these tanks?
The best solution to this was connecting the tanks with an isolator manifold.
Two 300 bar scuba cylinders connected by an isolating manifold
Using this setup, we could have a single regulator failure but still have access to all of our gas supply.
The isolator is an important part of this setup because it would allow a diver to isolate an unfixable leak to just one tank.
This prevents an immediate out-of-gas situation because you would still have one regulator working.
Some might argue that the manifold itself presents a failure point, but in all my years of diving doubles, I’ve not seen a bad manifold failure happen in the water.
In most cases, if the manifold were to fail, it would fail during the filling or setup process.
So what about sidemount?
So where does this leave us in the discussion on sidemount vs backmount?
Sidemount was created because of a specific need to access ever smaller and tighter holes in cave exploration. Places where backmounted tanks would have limited access.
Diving sidemount in open water negates the benefits of carrying 2 tanks by reverting to the original idea of the independent doubles. This of course comes with the associated negatives mentioned above.
There are some benefits to diving sidemount that proponents argue on; that it’s easier to put on; easier logistically; better for the back, etc.
See my other article about diving sidemount in open water to get an idea of why I think that’s not so relevant.
However, when we come back to the main reasons of why we have multiple tanks, sidemount just doesn’t match backmount when it comes to redundancy.
Should I set up my own gear or trust the resort to do it for me?
Sadly, the current state of the South East Asian dive industry has devolved into operators who pander to their divers every need. Setting up equipment before the dives, changing tanks between dives, and even putting on fins for their customers.
Some divers have come to expect this level of ‘service’ and being spoilt with this lazy way of diving, have forgotten completely how to set their gear up themselves.
I am personally against this, and will not allow it in the operations that we have. It’s not that we can’t do it, but a matter of principle.
Who’s really responsible for your safety?
If divers can’t take personal responsibility for their own safety, then who is really at fault when an incident occurs?
The scuba equipment that we use is critical to keeping us alive underwater. If we don’t even understand how it works, then if and when something does happen underwater, does that diver know how to react and how to deal with that situation?
Should we be faulting the operations at which these incidents occur?
Or should we be faulting their Open Water instructors for not training these divers well?
Or is it the diver, who gets complacent and fails to check their equipment prior to getting in the water?
The practice of signing liability forms and waiver forms before any dive doesn’t negate the responsibility that operators have in keeping divers safe.
However, when we continue to produce divers who can’t even remember how to set up their gear, who is really at fault?
Blame, blame, everywhere blame
This is a chicken and egg situation, and I’m afraid passing the blame from one party to another is not going to change anything.
Ultimately, individual divers should and must have responsibility for their own safety.
Dive operators are there to provide the logistics for diving, and to provide a safety briefing of the common local conditions found at that location.
Divers should take primary responsibility for their own safety, and not rely entirely on a dive guide or Divemaster.
If a dive is risky, or uncertain, divers should not be afraid to speak up and ask questions, rather than just trust that everything is under control and follow blindly.
It’s not just about setting up equipment, is it?
I know this question is about equipment setup, and maybe some people will think that it’s not a big deal, but to be honest, I think it’s not just about equipment setup. This leads to other skills and knowledge that most divers take for granted.
Personally, I do think that this is symptomatic of a larger problem in the diving industry.
As individual divers, always look to get better training, even if you think you already have the relevant certification, as no two dives are ever the same.
We never know what Mother Nature is ready to serve up to us, so all we can do is to be as prepared as we can be.
Is sidemount diving relevant to open water dives?
Sidemount diving is slowly becoming more common and gaining some popularity.
More and more divers are seen diving sidemount in open water environments.
However, is this just a fad and is it relevant to the diving that we normally do?
Where did it come from?
Sidemount diving, which started with exploratory cave diving, was created so that cave explorers could access tighter and more restrictive holes, allowing exploration further into cave systems.
The benefits of sidemount include the freedom of not having large double tanks on your back, the feeling of being free and less weight to cause backaches, easier logistics from carrying smaller tanks to boats instead of larger doubles, etc.
However, do these benefits apply when diving in the open ocean? IMHO, not so much.
Sidemount from shore
In ocean diving, you would traditionally either dive off a boat or from shore.
Shore dives do see a small benefit from sidemount. Mostly from when you have to transport tanks to the waters’ edge, which may not necessarily be a comfortable beach entry.
There could be large waves or rocks that make carrying a large set of doubles tricky if not dangerous to the diver.
In this situation, yes, you would see some benefit from ferrying the tanks to the water in multiple trips, but this would still mean having to make several trips up and down the beach.
Me personally, I’d rather fight the waves once and get into the water quickly, rather than have to struggle multiple times.
Sidemount from a boat
What about diving from a boat?
There’s no requirement to move tanks around, but most divers will have to put on their tanks in the water next to the boat to prevent having to stand with tanks bouncing on your sides while the boat rocks in the waves.
Of course, it’s possible to put on the sidemount tanks on the boat and backroll with them between your legs. But anyone who has ever had a stage tank bash your head on impact with the water would think twice about this.
What happens if there’s some current on the surface?
This would make the process of clipping off the tanks one by one very troublesome while needing to hold on to the boat as well. In choppy seas, this is not an option I would even consider.
Carrying doubles on your back is a much easier option, as you would be way more stable with the weight on your back.
The water entry will be much easier too because you are free to move away from the boat once in the water.
What about during the dives?
Does the sidemount configuration provide any benefits while you’re diving? Well, there is a sense of freedom and increased maneuverability from not having a large mass on your back.
However, you do have to remember to keep the tanks streamlined by checking periodically that they are clipped on the appropriate D-rings as the tanks get lighter.
Plus, you also have to balance the tank usage by breathing from different tanks every once in a while.
This added task load is unavoidable in sidemount, and an additional task when compared with diving doubles.
I haven’t found a restriction in open water yet
In conclusion, there are some benefits to diving sidemount, but sadly, most of them don’t really apply to diving in the open water environment.
I would say that the configuration is an important one to practice with and get good at before attempting to dive a cave system, so practicing in open water makes sense.
However, I personally don’t think diving sidemount as a default configuration in open water really provides enough benefits to outweigh the added complications.
Do GUE people only dive with other GUE people?
A lot of GUE divers, upon getting certified, will want to plan a trip with other GUE divers and go diving. Whilst diving more is always a good thing, what happens when GUE divers only want to dive with other GUE divers?
The Natural Attrition rate of GUE Divers
For me, this situation is not unsurprising. Who wouldn’t want to dive with a team that has the same training, protocols and thinking as you? Why wouldn’t you want to dive with someone whom you know has your back, and can keep you safe? This is in contrast to the ‘instabuddy’, who first meets you on the boat before the dive. You have no idea the level or experience that this person has, and no way of knowing what he’s like underwater. Generally, this doesn’t inspire confidence…
If we all think that way, then what next?
However, I don’t think this is good for the industry and for GUE in general. Firstly, there’s an impression that GUE divers are elitist, making them seem unfriendly and uptight when it comes to dive parameters. Keeping to oneself and not interacting with other divers definitely doesn’t help that impression, but this sticks even though some GUE divers are well meaning and not elitist by nature.
I say help if you can!
Secondly, I feel that as more skilled divers, we have a moral obligation to help and assist others. After all, can we stand by while the environment and other divers get injured and do nothing to teach and educate them about a better way of doing things?
Most diving incidents and environmental damage are entirely preventable, through better training and an increased awareness. By seeing GUE divers lead by example, my hope is that this thinking slowly permeates through the industry, regardless of agency or affiliation. Our greatest obligation is ultimately to the environment that we’ve all grown to love as divers.
So get out there and let other divers have the benefit of your presence in the water! Let them have a safer dive, just by being there. Wouldn’t you want to do this for all your friends who dive?
Let’s lead by example!
What tools do I need for a dive trip?
It’s always good to have a small set of tools when you dive. Better yet, have them on hand in the boat! You never know when you might need to repair something just before a dive.
Here are items that are useful to have, but of course, not all are always necessary. I’ve listed them in terms of two levels of preparedness: An essential set of tools, and a hardcore-fix-almost-anything set of tools that would serve you well if you wanted to dive at the end of the world with zero logistical support.
The Essential 14
- Adjustable spanner, one small and one medium sized – For regulator hoses and SPG removal
- Screwdriver, one Philips screw head and one flat-blade – For canister lights, hose clamps, etc.
- Cable tie, 5 to 10 pieces – For miscellaneous attachments.
- Nylon line, 1 to 2m long – For tying bolt snaps and other miscellaneous attachments.
- Lighter – For burning ends of nylon line.
- Bungee, 1 to 2m long – For replacing necklaces and other attachments.
- Scissors or cutter – For miscellaneous cutting.
- Duct tape, 1 roll – Never leave home without this! Duct tape is useful for Nitrox labelling, holding stuff in place, and other general uses.
- Allen key set containing multiple sizes of keys – For port plugs on first stages.
- Scuba Multi-tool – Some multi-function scuba tools combine a few of these tools in one small, compact package, and these normally come with screwdriver heads, various Hex key sizes, and an O-ring pick.
- O-ring pick – For removing O-rings. (Note: A small one should be sufficient.)
- Spare O-rings – For port plugs, regulator hoses, and SPG spindles.
- Grease – For lubricating parts like the O-rings (Tip: Instead of bringing out a large tube of grease, a simple solution would be squeezing some grease into a small ziptop bag. It’s also convenient to use – just pop the O-ring in the bag, seal and slide it around with your fingers. Voila, the O-ring is greased!)
- Spare mouthpiece – In case you get so excited that you accidentally bite through the mouthpiece on your regulator.
And here comes the list for total preparedness at extreme dive locations where you’d want to have everything on hand, except the kitchen sink!
Fix-it-all
- Tank knob tool – Larger dive operations like dive shops and liveaboard boats should have this tool, but it’s good to have your own as you never know when or where you’ll be when a tank knob gets stuck!
- DIN or Yoke adapter – For times when the boat operator doesn’t have the type of tank valves that you need for your first stage.
- Spare inflator assembly – Good to have replacements on hand as inflators are fickle; the button spring is a salt sink that get sticky from just missing a single wash.
- Spare double enders and bolt snaps – Infinitely useful, these little things make carrying equipment underwater very manageable.
- Small metal parts like washers, wing nuts, LP and HP port plugs – These are useful if something breaks and you need to plug a first stage. Small washers and spare wing nuts for your backplate system are also useful. Place these in a small ziptop bag to keep them safe and secure.
- Seasick pills and Charcoal tablets – These are typically classified under medication, but these meds are needed so often, there’s no harm stashing them in your tool kit AND first aid kit.
Storage
Keep these tools in a small-sized waterproof box that you can stow in your dry bag. Avoid leaving them around, especially wet surfaces, as tools tend to get rusty real quick around seawater! To absorb moisture trapped within the box, place a small silica gel bag or unused cat litter (inside a tiny sock) inside.
Look Ma, no hands, knees or fins!
Swimmers who are new to diving tend to have a bad habit of using their hands to swim.
Tender hands tend to get cut on sharp coral, especially if divers are unaware of their position in the water.
Knees and fins are also commonly seen on reefs, kicking up silt and breaking delicate coral.
Getting your hands and legs under control is one of the first things new divers should concentrate on.
Get streamlined and start to look like a real diver!