Browsing Tag dive gear
2 ways you’re wearing your wetsuit wrongly
How do you put on your wetsuit?
This might seem to be a simple enough thing to answer, and you might be wondering, “doesn’t everyone know this already?”
However, you’d be surprised how often I see people having trouble wearing their wetsuit.
Either punching themselves in the face or turning red from the exertion of getting their wetsuit on.
In fact, there’s a common saying that wearing your wetsuit is the most tiring part of going diving!
Let me try to dispel this myth by giving you a method of wearing a wetsuit that I’ve found to be super easy and useful.
I’ve always found that people miss one very vital and critical step in putting on their wetsuit.
Sure, there’s a lot of pulling still, but immediately after the pull, most of the time the lower part of wetsuit is resting on top of the upper part of your wetsuit, which is exactly the part that you’re going to be pulling up next.
This makes it that much harder to pull up the second part of the wetsuit because the lower portion is pressing down on it and making it tighter.
Once you realise this, then the cool trick is to fold down the wetsuit immediately after you’ve pulled it up.
This brings the upper part of the wetsuit OVER the lower portion, and when you do pull this section up, it’s going to just slide over itself, making it really really easy to pull it up.
Rinse and repeat these steps and soon you’ll have your wetsuit nice and snug!
Have a look at this video to get the full idea.
And by the way, this works for wetsuit legs too.
Try it out and see if you start to like wearing your wetsuit again!
I’d love to hear how you get on with this, so please let me know if it works for you in the comments.
Bonus tip no 2
Another major thing that I see people getting wrong is they pull up the wetsuit too far from the fold.
In order to make it easier, always pull the part of the wetsuit that’s just higher than where it stopped.
Just watch the video above to get an idea of where to hold and pull on the wetsuit.
If you pull too far from the fold, then you’re just stretching the wetsuit material and not putting it on.
Always work from the ends (your wrists and your ankles), get this in place first and pull towards the body.
It only takes a few pulls with this process to get the wetsuit on, it’s definitely a much easier process!
Why does my finger get cut on bolt snaps?
Almost everyone who’s had any experience doing a course where drills and bolt snaps are involved ends up with fingers and thumbs cut up like in the photo above.
Why does this happen, and how can we prevent it?
Rushing is never a good thing
Bolt snaps, while great for attaching to dive gear, is terrible on fingers when used incorrectly.
The skin on our fingers gets softer when diving for a while.
This delicate skin is easily scratched and torn when rubbed on a sharp surface.
A badly torn up thumb from using a bolt snap incorrectly.
Be careful where you put those fingers!
Gloves aren’t really the answer, as always, I’m more in favor of dealing with the cause of the problem, rather than fixing a symptom.
The proper method for managing bolt snaps then is to place the side of your finger on the trigger, and not press your flesh into the sharp edges of the slot.
The proper way to hold a bolt snap open.
The sharp bit of a bolt snap is the slot that holds the spring of the trigger, not the trigger itself.
By placing your finger further out, you’ll reduce the risk of the two sharp edges slicing your skin.
Slow is smooth, smooth is fast
Get a good finger position on the trigger, then position the gate next to the D-ring before applying pressure. The bolt snap should slip right into the D-ring at this point.
Too often, I see divers trying to ‘catch’ the D-ring with the gate while holding it open.
Or they would apply too much pressure on the trigger because they are stressed out and trying to get the drill done quickly.
As with anything in life, rushing is never a good thing.
Slow is smooth, smooth is fast!
What should I focus on now that I’m certified as a diver?
Congratulations on being a diver and joining the club as an adventurer!
After getting certified as an Open Water diver, the choice of courses, trips, and equipment seems endless.
What’s the next adventure you should embark on? And what should you spend on to maximize your enjoyment?
More diving?
Getting more diving done is always a good choice.
Your enthusiasm for diving is still running high, and there are so many places to go and things to see.
There are a lot of different types of diving out there, like strong drift dives, altitude diving, muck diving, liveaboard diving, underwater photography, etc.
Divers preparing for a boat dive
Gaining experience in all of these different diving environments is necessary to make a well-rounded diver.
However, with heavy travel expenses, and expensive resorts and boats, perhaps being more equipped would help with your overall experience?
More equipment?
What about buying new dive equipment for your next adventure? Would that be a wise way to spend your resources?
I think personal dive equipment is important when the fit is a primary concern like wetsuits, booties, and masks.
These can be purchased early on, as long as you find something that is suitable for where you plan to dive.
These items are not very expensive, and with a good fit, they will ensure you remain comfortable on your trip.
However, with bigger items where the function is more important, like BCDs, regs, and fins, buyers should really understand how they dive before taking the plunge and spending.
Different brands and models are designed for specific purposes and dive techniques.
If you’re not informed, it’s easy to make a bad purchase on equipment that will either not grow and scale with your diving, or will not last long with regular use.
The second-hand market for dive gear is huge, and most of the time, people are selling old gear to upgrade to better gear that will better serve how they dive.
In the interest of not creating any more waste than we need to, I believe that being better informed about dive gear will allow divers to make a purchase once with good gear that will last you your entire diving life.
More courses?
What about spending on taking more courses and increasing your dive knowledge?
Certain courses will teach you to be more comfortable in the water, and increase your dive skills.
I believe strongly that improving this has a positive effect on all your future dives.
Once you are truly comfortable and can manage your position in the water well, then all dives you do will be more enjoyable dives.
Less fear, less confusion about what to do, and ultimately, more enjoyment!
I firmly believe that getting to this point in your diving is the first thing you should invest in, as this has the biggest benefits to your diving.
Develop a passion for learning. If you do, you will never cease to grow.
– Anthony J. D’Angelo
I do think that gaining more knowledge through courses and experiences make one a better diver.
It also provides a path to understanding yourself and dive gear better too, leading to better and more informed choices about the kinds of gear that you want.
Make an investment in yourself today!
How do I tie a good knot?
Attaching bolt snaps to dive gear like SPG hoses, regulators and backup lights make them easier to stow.
Now a common question I get is: So how should I tie a long lasting knot?
We’ve addressed the different types of knots in a previous article, so read this if you would like to find out more about attachment options.
In this article, I’m going to show you how to get a good solid knot tied, so that it lasts (almost) as long as your gear.
A lot of other articles and videos also show how to tie a knot, but I’d like to highlight some of the more important things that I look out for to make sure the knot stays tied over a long period of time.
At the end of the article, I’ll also show the common errors that might cause a knot to fail.
Line choice
Traditionally, most people would use the same line found on their spools to tie their knots.
I’m not a great fan of this, for 2 reasons.
Firstly, it shortens your spool, resulting in an unknown length of line left on the spool.
This is a problem especially if you have a lot of things to tie. I would never recommend going diving without knowing the length of line you have on your spool.
Secondly, and more importantly, I don’t find the braiding on that line appropriate. It’s much too heavy.
A tighter and thinner braid on the line doesn’t stretch as much when wet, creating a more secure knot that doesn’t slip.
Image of a thinly braided line on the left and a heavy braided line on the right
Loop around the connection point and bolt eye
I normally go for 3 or 4 loops around the connection point and the eye of the bolt snap.
For long hoses and SPG hoses, I tend to do 4, but for heavier or other more dynamic knots, I would use more, sometimes up to the width of the bolt snap eye.
Looping the line through the eye of the bolt snap
Cross over and pull tight under the bolt snap
After getting the loops nice, neat and tight, I would bring both ends of the line to the same side of the bolt snap.
Getting the line to the same side of the bolt snap
Then cross both ends of the line and pull them tight, pulling them under the eye of the bolt snap.
Crossing the line and pulling it tight
Pulling the line under the eye of the bolt snap
Ensure that the line is tight around the original loops, making sure that the outer loop is cinching the original loops tight together.
Right over left, left over right
A nice solid knot requires a good tie, and the best one for this situation is the square knot.
Right over left and left over right, that’s a simple phrase I remember to get this correct.
It’s a good knot because the lines tighten on themselves, and it forms a nice flat knot that doesn’t stick out and get abraded.
Tying a square knot
The final square knot
Cut and burn one end at a time
Once the knot is nice and tight, it’s time to seal the ends by cutting and burning off the tips of the nylon line.
The trick here is to cut and burn only one side at a time.
Cut the line as close to the knot as you can, about 1 or 2mm away from the knot.
Only cut one end of the line first, do not cut both sides!
Use a lighter and place it perpendicular to the line, using the heat from the blue part of the flame to melt the line onto the knot itself.
Use a lighter to burn the tip of the line and melt them onto the knot
The melted line on the knot
It’s important to make sure that the excess line is melted into the side of the knot.
This is critical so that the line doesn’t pull out when you cut the other side of the line.
The final knot in all its melted glory
Make it last forever!
I’ve tied knots that have lasted 5 or 6 years with this method, so by following this guide, I’m sure you’ll be able to get a good knot going. Good luck!
Common errors to look out for
Wrong knot
It’s very common to tie a granny knot by repeating the same half knot in the second half of the square knot.
This is not a good knot and tends to slip.
It also tends to stick out, making it prone to abrasion.
An old timer granny knot
Not doing one side at a time
The problem with this is that pulling on one side of the knot will cause the other end to slip out if you’re not careful.
In the least, this will cause the knot to slip and open up a little bit, making it looser.
Cutting both ends of the line before burning them results in a loose knot
Not burning the line into the knot
Burning the tips of the line away from the knot allows the line to slip back into the knot, loosening the knot over time.
Burning the tip of the line away from the knot results in pull back and loosening of the knot
Should I use a 5 foot or 7 foot long hose?
There are two schools of thought regarding the length of a long hose.
5 or 7 feet (1.5 m or 2 m)?
Let’s explore where they came from and the rationale behind each of them.
7 feet – longer than the average human
The 7-foot hose came from the cave diving environment.
Divers would need to share gas, but sometimes having to go through a restriction swimming in single file.
This made the regular short hose unusable, as you wouldn’t be able to share gas with someone in front or behind you.
The 7-foot hose was used so that divers could have the out of gas diver in front of the donor in single file and still have enough hose to be comfortable (unless you were sharing gas with an 8-foot tall giant…).
Ocean divers then discovered that a longer hose would help in keeping the divers further apart, allowing for better maneuverability and comfort.
However, some people thought that the 7-foot hose was too long because you would never really be sharing in single file in an open water environment.
A 5-foot hose was then adopted as a compromise to having a longer hose to manage while sharing.
5 feet – still a long hose but is it too short?
Personally, I would always use a 7-foot hose, but not for the reasons of sharing ironically.
The longer hose is definitely harder to manage when you’re learning it, but overall, I think it loops better and stows away better into the waist belt or behind a canister light.
This holds the hose in position during the dive, and if managed properly, the hose will stay in that location and not move around.
The 5-foot hose would be trapped under the right armpit when used by a larger diver.
In some cases (8-foot giants especially), this can get uncomfortable to the point of not having enough hose length to turn your head to look left.
Smaller sized divers would not have this problem.
However, as the hose is not secured, it will float and move around behind the arm and potentially above the head.
This may create problems when diving doubles, as the hose extending from the second stage tends to get looped around the isolator manifold or right regulator and knob.
Once there, a sharp turn to the left can actually pull the second stage out of the mouth!
7 feet – a Goldilocks length
For these reasons, I personally would always recommend using a 7-foot hose.
It’s long enough for everyone to be able to tuck it securely under the canister light, or into the waistband.
If your waistband is tight enough, then the hose should not pop out on its own accord and float around.
Having stuff in places where they are secure is a big thing for me, as is keeping things nice and neat.
I really hate it when equipment comes loose and causes problems during a dive.
Equipment should be there to support me, not cause additional issues!
Are diving doubles and sidemount the same thing?
In terms of the number of tanks you might carry, sure, doubles and sidemount appear similar.
However, sidemount and backmount doubles differ in one crucial area – the isolator manifold!
Why would you ever need more than one tank?
Now, let’s start from first principles.
What are the reasons for carrying more than one tank in the first place?
Some might argue that gas volume is the primary reason, however, redundancy is a more important and valid reason.
On a normal single tank (especially one with yoke valves), O-ring failures (tank neck, tank knob and yoke valve) are relatively common.
The next most common thing to fail in scuba gear would be the regulator setup, as there are many O-rings and hoses that can rupture and cause a catastrophic gas loss.
Single points of failure are dangerous when diving
With single tanks, a gas loss from an o-ring failure in the yoke valve or the regulator will result in an immediate out of gas situation.
In order to deal with this situation in deeper or more extreme dives where a direct ascent to the surface is impossible (a decompression obligation or an overhead environment), we would require a secondary gas supply so that we don’t go into an out-of-gas situation on a single failure.
Double your tanks, double your hoses, double your failures
A quick solution to this was to just carry another tank.
In the early days, people would just carry 2 tanks, with a full set of regulators on each, in essence, doubling up on the gas supply, but also doubling up on the failure points in the system.
However, what if halfway through the dive, you had one full tank and one nearly empty tank and a failure happened on the full tank?
This would leave you with a nearly empty tank, with no backup.
Clearly, this wasn’t an ideal solution.
What about connecting these tanks?
The best solution to this was connecting the tanks with an isolator manifold.
Two 300 bar scuba cylinders connected by an isolating manifold
Using this setup, we could have a single regulator failure but still have access to all of our gas supply.
The isolator is an important part of this setup because it would allow a diver to isolate an unfixable leak to just one tank.
This prevents an immediate out-of-gas situation because you would still have one regulator working.
Some might argue that the manifold itself presents a failure point, but in all my years of diving doubles, I’ve not seen a bad manifold failure happen in the water.
In most cases, if the manifold were to fail, it would fail during the filling or setup process.
So what about sidemount?
So where does this leave us in the discussion on sidemount vs backmount?
Sidemount was created because of a specific need to access ever smaller and tighter holes in cave exploration. Places where backmounted tanks would have limited access.
Diving sidemount in open water negates the benefits of carrying 2 tanks by reverting to the original idea of the independent doubles. This of course comes with the associated negatives mentioned above.
There are some benefits to diving sidemount that proponents argue on; that it’s easier to put on; easier logistically; better for the back, etc.
See my other article about diving sidemount in open water to get an idea of why I think that’s not so relevant.
However, when we come back to the main reasons of why we have multiple tanks, sidemount just doesn’t match backmount when it comes to redundancy.
Should I set up my own gear or trust the resort to do it for me?
Sadly, the current state of the South East Asian dive industry has devolved into operators who pander to their divers every need. Setting up equipment before the dives, changing tanks between dives, and even putting on fins for their customers.
Some divers have come to expect this level of ‘service’ and being spoilt with this lazy way of diving, have forgotten completely how to set their gear up themselves.
I am personally against this, and will not allow it in the operations that we have. It’s not that we can’t do it, but a matter of principle.
Who’s really responsible for your safety?
If divers can’t take personal responsibility for their own safety, then who is really at fault when an incident occurs?
The scuba equipment that we use is critical to keeping us alive underwater. If we don’t even understand how it works, then if and when something does happen underwater, does that diver know how to react and how to deal with that situation?
Should we be faulting the operations at which these incidents occur?
Or should we be faulting their Open Water instructors for not training these divers well?
Or is it the diver, who gets complacent and fails to check their equipment prior to getting in the water?
The practice of signing liability forms and waiver forms before any dive doesn’t negate the responsibility that operators have in keeping divers safe.
However, when we continue to produce divers who can’t even remember how to set up their gear, who is really at fault?
Blame, blame, everywhere blame
This is a chicken and egg situation, and I’m afraid passing the blame from one party to another is not going to change anything.
Ultimately, individual divers should and must have responsibility for their own safety.
Dive operators are there to provide the logistics for diving, and to provide a safety briefing of the common local conditions found at that location.
Divers should take primary responsibility for their own safety, and not rely entirely on a dive guide or Divemaster.
If a dive is risky, or uncertain, divers should not be afraid to speak up and ask questions, rather than just trust that everything is under control and follow blindly.
It’s not just about setting up equipment, is it?
I know this question is about equipment setup, and maybe some people will think that it’s not a big deal, but to be honest, I think it’s not just about equipment setup. This leads to other skills and knowledge that most divers take for granted.
Personally, I do think that this is symptomatic of a larger problem in the diving industry.
As individual divers, always look to get better training, even if you think you already have the relevant certification, as no two dives are ever the same.
We never know what Mother Nature is ready to serve up to us, so all we can do is to be as prepared as we can be.
Are miflex hoses worth the effort?
In my opinion, I’d say a definite no! There are multiple issues with Miflex hoses, which I’ve witnessed multiple times throughout my experience, both with my own gear and with other divers’ gear.
Softer and more flexible, a solution looking for a problem?
Most people tout the benefit of Miflex being its greater flexibility over regular rubber hoses, but is that flexibility really all that useful in a diving environment? I think not.
I only care about the functionality of the hose while you’re diving, not while it’s coiled up in your regulator bag.
A Halcyon regulator with rubber hoses curled up in a regulator bag
In regular use, I can’t imagine anyone needing a hose that would be more flexible than a regular rubber hose. After all, your body isn’t that flexible, and the hoses are connected to you, so I don’t see why a flexible hose is necessary.
The second benefit that’s touted is the higher burst pressure of the hose. Hmm, not sure about anywhere else, but who uses tanks which are filled to 600bar anyway? I’ve never seen any application outside of industrial use that has such high pressures.
A third benefit is the braided covering, which is supposed to be more durable, but I can definitely prove that this is not the case.
Kinky hoses make bad wrestling partners
Now, to the negatives. The braided hose has a funny memory, and sometimes kinks in weird ways, not in a smooth curve like a rubber hose would. I’ve seen more divers wrestling with Miflex hoses in recent years than I’ve ever seen with rubber hoses.
Apart from that, over time, the braid tends to undo and break off little hairs that stick out of the hose, making it a very uncomfortable if you happen to have that hose rubbing on the back of your neck.
The flexibility of the HP SPG Miflex hose also causes the weight of the SPG to pull downwards, so it tends to hang lower. This makes the whole SPG assembly less streamlined than the harder rubber hose, which tends to stay in place nicely.
Perhaps the hose routing is easier with a Miflex because the hose can bend easier. However, I do find that this tends to constrict the hose and eventually cause a bigger tear in the hose around the metal crimp.
Without even having to mention the recent spate of Miflex hose failures, I’d say those negatives, coupled with the increased price, make this an investment that is unworthy, and unnecessary at best.
A Miflex hose that has degraded and rubber has started pushing through the nylon braids
Is sidemount diving relevant to open water dives?
Sidemount diving is slowly becoming more common and gaining some popularity.
More and more divers are seen diving sidemount in open water environments.
However, is this just a fad and is it relevant to the diving that we normally do?
Where did it come from?
Sidemount diving, which started with exploratory cave diving, was created so that cave explorers could access tighter and more restrictive holes, allowing exploration further into cave systems.
The benefits of sidemount include the freedom of not having large double tanks on your back, the feeling of being free and less weight to cause backaches, easier logistics from carrying smaller tanks to boats instead of larger doubles, etc.
However, do these benefits apply when diving in the open ocean? IMHO, not so much.
Sidemount from shore
In ocean diving, you would traditionally either dive off a boat or from shore.
Shore dives do see a small benefit from sidemount. Mostly from when you have to transport tanks to the waters’ edge, which may not necessarily be a comfortable beach entry.
There could be large waves or rocks that make carrying a large set of doubles tricky if not dangerous to the diver.
In this situation, yes, you would see some benefit from ferrying the tanks to the water in multiple trips, but this would still mean having to make several trips up and down the beach.
Me personally, I’d rather fight the waves once and get into the water quickly, rather than have to struggle multiple times.
Sidemount from a boat
What about diving from a boat?
There’s no requirement to move tanks around, but most divers will have to put on their tanks in the water next to the boat to prevent having to stand with tanks bouncing on your sides while the boat rocks in the waves.
Of course, it’s possible to put on the sidemount tanks on the boat and backroll with them between your legs. But anyone who has ever had a stage tank bash your head on impact with the water would think twice about this.
What happens if there’s some current on the surface?
This would make the process of clipping off the tanks one by one very troublesome while needing to hold on to the boat as well. In choppy seas, this is not an option I would even consider.
Carrying doubles on your back is a much easier option, as you would be way more stable with the weight on your back.
The water entry will be much easier too because you are free to move away from the boat once in the water.
What about during the dives?
Does the sidemount configuration provide any benefits while you’re diving? Well, there is a sense of freedom and increased maneuverability from not having a large mass on your back.
However, you do have to remember to keep the tanks streamlined by checking periodically that they are clipped on the appropriate D-rings as the tanks get lighter.
Plus, you also have to balance the tank usage by breathing from different tanks every once in a while.
This added task load is unavoidable in sidemount, and an additional task when compared with diving doubles.
I haven’t found a restriction in open water yet
In conclusion, there are some benefits to diving sidemount, but sadly, most of them don’t really apply to diving in the open water environment.
I would say that the configuration is an important one to practice with and get good at before attempting to dive a cave system, so practicing in open water makes sense.
However, I personally don’t think diving sidemount as a default configuration in open water really provides enough benefits to outweigh the added complications.
What tools do I need for a dive trip?
It’s always good to have a small set of tools when you dive. Better yet, have them on hand in the boat! You never know when you might need to repair something just before a dive.
Here are items that are useful to have, but of course, not all are always necessary. I’ve listed them in terms of two levels of preparedness: An essential set of tools, and a hardcore-fix-almost-anything set of tools that would serve you well if you wanted to dive at the end of the world with zero logistical support.
The Essential 14
- Adjustable spanner, one small and one medium sized – For regulator hoses and SPG removal
- Screwdriver, one Philips screw head and one flat-blade – For canister lights, hose clamps, etc.
- Cable tie, 5 to 10 pieces – For miscellaneous attachments.
- Nylon line, 1 to 2m long – For tying bolt snaps and other miscellaneous attachments.
- Lighter – For burning ends of nylon line.
- Bungee, 1 to 2m long – For replacing necklaces and other attachments.
- Scissors or cutter – For miscellaneous cutting.
- Duct tape, 1 roll – Never leave home without this! Duct tape is useful for Nitrox labelling, holding stuff in place, and other general uses.
- Allen key set containing multiple sizes of keys – For port plugs on first stages.
- Scuba Multi-tool – Some multi-function scuba tools combine a few of these tools in one small, compact package, and these normally come with screwdriver heads, various Hex key sizes, and an O-ring pick.
- O-ring pick – For removing O-rings. (Note: A small one should be sufficient.)
- Spare O-rings – For port plugs, regulator hoses, and SPG spindles.
- Grease – For lubricating parts like the O-rings (Tip: Instead of bringing out a large tube of grease, a simple solution would be squeezing some grease into a small ziptop bag. It’s also convenient to use – just pop the O-ring in the bag, seal and slide it around with your fingers. Voila, the O-ring is greased!)
- Spare mouthpiece – In case you get so excited that you accidentally bite through the mouthpiece on your regulator.
And here comes the list for total preparedness at extreme dive locations where you’d want to have everything on hand, except the kitchen sink!
Fix-it-all
- Tank knob tool – Larger dive operations like dive shops and liveaboard boats should have this tool, but it’s good to have your own as you never know when or where you’ll be when a tank knob gets stuck!
- DIN or Yoke adapter – For times when the boat operator doesn’t have the type of tank valves that you need for your first stage.
- Spare inflator assembly – Good to have replacements on hand as inflators are fickle; the button spring is a salt sink that gets sticky from just missing a single wash.
- Spare double enders and bolt snaps – Infinitely useful, these little things make carrying equipment underwater very manageable.
- Small metal parts like washers, wing nuts, LP and HP port plugs – These are useful if something breaks and you need to plug a first stage. Small washers and spare wing nuts for your backplate system are also useful. Place these in a small ziptop bag to keep them safe and secure.
- Seasick pills and Charcoal tablets – These are typically classified under medication, but these meds are needed so often, there’s no harm stashing them in your tool kit AND first aid kit.
Storage
Keep these tools in a small-sized waterproof box that you can stow in your dry bag. Avoid leaving them around, especially wet surfaces, as tools tend to get rusty real quick around seawater! To absorb moisture trapped within the box, place a small silica gel bag or unused cat litter (inside a tiny sock) inside.